Majmui sohahoi makhsusgardonidashudai sanoat, ki az na- vhoi gunoguni ashyoi khom masnuoti istemoli umumi istehsol mekunad, sanoati sabuk meboshand.
Sokhtori sanoati sabuk muassisahoi zerinro dar bar megi- rad: fabrikahoi resandagi, bofandagi, nassoji, duzandagi, kom- binathoi poyafzolduzi, zavodhoi pakhtatozakuni, kombinati abreshim, kombinati bofandagii istehsoli charm va amsoli inho.
In navi sanoat az pakhta, pashm va abreshim, nakh va charm ma- tohoi gunogun, qolinho, masnuoti trikotaji , poyafzol va di- gar masnuoti charmi istehsol mekunad. Dar barobari ravnaqi in navi sanoat sanoati charchinvori (galanteriya) niz rushd yoft.
Dar tamomi jahon sanoati sabuk yake az kuhnatarin sohai ananavii istehsoli masoleh meboshad. Dar davomi inkishofi durudarozi in sanoat dar tarzu tariqai istehsolot digargu- nihoi jiddi ba vujud meomadand.
Dar ayni zamon sanoati sabuk yak qator sohahoro dar bar megirad, ki bofandagi, duzandagi, charmgari va amsoli inho az jumlai onho meboshand. Dar bayni sohahoi gunoguni sanoati sa- buk sanoati bofandagiyu resandagi maqomi maruftar dorand. Dar korkhonavu fabrikahoi resandagi matohoi gunogun, az qa- bili pakhtagi, pashmi, katoni, shohi bofta meshavand. Dar sohai sanoati sabuk baroi istehsoli navhoi moli nav mutakhassison kor mekunand, ki onho rassomoni matohovu tarhsozhoi libosu poyafzor meboshand.
Sanoati sabuk bo hamai sohahoi khojagii khalq zich aloqamand ast; mahsuloti vay dar hama jo – dar tib, moshinasozi, khimiya va khojagii qishloq istifoda meshavad. Dar navbati khud kori kor- khonahoi sanoati sabuk ba ashyoe, ki khojagii qishloq va sanoati khimiya istehsol mekunand, vobastagi dorad.
Holo sanotai sabuk beshtar az nakh va resmoni sunii khimi- yavi istifoda mebarad.
Sanoati bofandagi. In navi istehsolot yake az kalontarin sohai sanoati sabuk ast. Ba tarkibi on yak qator zersohahoi makh- susgardonidashuda, ba monandi pakhtagi, pashmi, shohi, kanabi, bofandagi, charchinvori, nassoji, istehsoli matohoi betoru pud va gayra dokhil meshavand.
Hangomi ba guruhho judo kardani in zersohaho khususiyati ashyoi korkardashavanda ba inobat girifta shuda bud. CHunonchi, baroi matohoi pashmi – pashm, katoni-katon, pakhtagi-pakhta, shohigi-shohi, kanabi-jut-katon (lyon), kanab. Dar taqsimi zer- sohahoi navi peshqadam khususiyati tekhnologii istehsolot ba ino- bat girifta shud: baroi nassoji – bofandagi, baroi istehsoli matohoi betoru pud – usulhoe, ki az istehsoli bofandagi farq mekunand.
Zersohahoi navi sanoati bofandagi (istehsoli nassoji va be toru pud) dar muqoisa bo istehsoli bofandagi du marotiba mah- sulnokii tajhizotro baland mekunand.
Dar namunai sohahoi pakhtagi va nassoji, hamchunin mato- hoi betoru pud, digarshavii tekhnologiyai istehsolotro dida me- baroem.
Istehsoli mato az resish, boftan va oroish iborat ast, ki mutanosiban istehsoloti resandagi, bofandagi va oroishiro tashkil medihad.
Vazifai istehsoloti resandagi az nakhhoi pakhtagi, ki ba korkhonaho meoyad, resmoni gafsiash muayyan barovardan ast. Dar in ravand se sistemai asosii resandagi kor farmuda meshavad: kardi, shonagi va dastgohi (apparati).
Hangomi kor bo sistemai kardi hamai pakhtahoi miyonnakh va nakhhoi khimiyavii daroziashon 40 mm kor karda meshavad. Pakhtai namudhoi gunogunro omekhta, onhoro bo yorii kardhoi suzanvor narm va shona mekunand va az on tasma (lenta) tayyor mekunand. In tasmaro dar moshinhoi rostkunanda pechonda, mahsuloti nihoyat borik megirand. Dar moshinai resandagii khalqashakl mahsuloti nihoyat borikro az tajhizoti kashanda meguzaronand, ki vay boz ham borik gardida, dar natija ba naycha pechonda meshavad.
Dar solhoi okhir mashinahoi resandagii khalqashakl bo moshi- nahoi pnevmatikii resandagi ivaz meshavand. Bo usuli pnevmo- mekhaniki ziyoda az 60% resmonhoi pakhtagi barovarda meshavad. Resmoni bo usuli pnevmomekhaniki residashuda bo khislathoi khud – bo yak andozagi – farq mekunand.
Resmonhoi dastgohiro az pakhtai daroznakh megirand. Vay na- zar ba nakhi kardi boriktar, tozatar va mustahkamtar ast. Usuli resishi shonagi az kardi bo on farq mekunad, ki dar on badi kor bo moshinahoi gozdihi va tasmagi usuli shona kardani nakh ba roh monda shudaast. Vaqti shona nakh rost meshavad, az vay nakhhoi kutoh va omekhtaho judo meshavand.
Resishi dastgohiro baroi istehsoli resmoni pakhtagii gafs istifoda mebarand. Tudai nakhdorro badi gozdihi ba nakhho judo mekunand va bad ba mahsuloti nihoyat borik pechonda megirand. Az mahsuloti nihoyat boriki hosilshuda dar moshinahoi resan- dagi nakh mebarorand. Nakh dar in vaqt na on qadar rost meshavad.
Az ruyi tarkibash nakh yakkhela va yo omekhta shuda metavonad. Bo rohi omekhtan nakhhoe, ki khususiyathoi nakhi asosiro behtar me- kunand, girifta meshavand. Hamin tavr, ilovai nakhi lavsani ba pakhtagi farsudashavi va obnogirii matoro baland mekunad.
Resmoni yakresmona, tofta va dutobaro judo mekunand. Nakhi yakresmonaro dar moshinahoi resandagi bo toftani nakhhoi ju- dogona tayyor mekunand. Resmoni toftaro az du ziyoda resmonhoi zamkarda megirand. Resmoni dutobaro az yak va bisyor toftaho tayyor mekunand.
Az resmon namudhoi gunoguni mato istehsol mekunand, ki in ba istehsoloti bofandagi dokhil meshavad.
Pesh az barovardani mato dar dastgohi bofandagi resmonho az korkardi muayyan, ki ba onho badoshti va suftagi medihad, me- guzarand. Baroi in yakchand amaliyot ijro meshavand: tanidani tor az galtak (bobina) ba navard; ohar dodan va khushkonidan.
Mato az resmonhoi tuli, ki asos nom dorad, va resmonhoi kundalangi, yane utokho tayyor meshavad.
Dastgohhoi bofandagii mokudor bisyor kamistehsol ast (na ziyoda 5 metr dar 1 soat). Matohoe, ki dar in dastgohho istehsol meshavand, khususiyathoi masohatashon gunogun ast.
Dar ayni zamon usulhoi navi istehsoli mato dar dast- gohhoi bofandagii bemoku az khud karda shudaand. Dastgohhoi bofandagii bisyorsurokhador niz ikhtiro karda shudaand. Dar yak qator dastgohho resmoni pudro mokuhoi khurd meguzaronand. Dar natijai kam shudani vazni moku, pahnoii surokhi khurd va surati mondani resmoni pudi baland meshavad, ki in hama ba balandsha- vii mahsulnokii to 15 metr dar 1 soat ovarda merasonad.
Matohoe, ki az tariqi dastgohhoi bofandagi barovarda me- shavand, matohoi durusht nomida meshavand. Oroishi matohoi durusht az kompleksi jarayoni fiziko-mekhaniki va khimiyavi ibo- rat ast, ki ba behtar kardani namudi va khususiyathoi makhsusi on ravona karda shudaand.
Naqshai kori dastgohi bofandagi
Usuli oroishi mato ba tabiati nakh, namudi mato va isti- fodaashon vobastagi dorad. Ravandi oroish niz usuli khos dorad va on az toza va tayyor kardan, safed kardan va rang kardan va yo chop kardani rasm iborat meboshad.
Matohoi pakhtaginro dar boloi otashi gaz va yo plitkahoi tafson doshta az ruyi on resmonhoi alohidai az har tarafash baromadaro nest mekunand, az hamin sabab mato sayqal yofta behtar rang meshavad. Bad matoro dar obi garm jushonda, oha- ri onro nest mekunand. Baroi nest kardani moddahoi ravgani va mumi matoro dar mahluli ishqori mejushonand. Badi jushoni- dan matoro bo oksidkunandaho safed mekunand. Baze matoho badi jushondan oro doda nameshavand.
Baroi ba mato jilo doda, onro badosht kardan va qobiliya- ti behtar ranggiriashro ba vujud ovardan, matoro bo mahluli obii gidrooksidi natriy korkard mekunand.
Baroi istehsoli matohoi patdor, hamchun bumazi, velvet va bayka patbarori ijro karda meshavad.
Matohoro bo ranghoi organiki va sintetiki bo yak rang yo bo usuli chopkunii rasm rang mekunand.
Matohoi melanji (gunogunnakh)-ro az resmonhoe, ki az omekh- tai nakhhoi rangshuda iborat hastand, tayyor mekunand.
Dar oroishdihii okhiron matoro bo mahluli krakhmal ob me- dihand. In kor baroi ba mato hamvori, zichi va sakhtigii muayyan dodan ba jo ovarda meshavad. Bad matoro bo vasegiash rost karda darzmol mekunand.
Matohoro chy tavr boyad farq kard? Artikul chist? Tavsifi muhimi mato in artikuli vay ast. Artikul – qatori raqamhoest, ki az ruyi onho tarkibi resmon, khususiyathoi tayyorshavi, kor va farmoishi matoro muayyan kardan mumkin ast.
Raqami yakumi artikuli matohoi pashmi- guruh, tarzi kor- kard va tarkibi nakhro mefahmonad. Hamin tavr, raqamhoi 1 va 2-matohoi kamvoli, 3, 4-borikii mohuti matoro va 5-6 gafsii mohuti matoro nishon medihand. Raqamhoi 1, 3, 5 ba matohoi az pashmi toza tayyorshuda va 2, 4, 6 ba matohoi az omekhtai pashm va nimpashm tayyorshuda dalolat mekunad.
Raqami duyumi artikul zerguruhi matoro mefahmonad (ma- salan, 4 – mohut, 6-drap, 7 – patdor, 9-makhsus va dig.). Raqamhoi digari artikul raqami tartibii malumot dar borai mato me- boshand. Indeksi «N», ki dar okhiri artikul monda meshavad ba matohoi navi balandsifat doda meshavad.
Masalan, artikuli 4957 ba matoi nimpashmini mohuti makh- sus taalluq dorad. Artikuli matohoi pakhtagi faqat guruhi onro mefahmonad. Masalan, matohoi artikuli 100-199 ba guruhi bez, 3800-4099 ba astari, 4100-4199 ba patdor va digar dokhil mesha- vand.
Istehsoloti nassoji nazar ba bofandagi javontar va peshqa- dam ast. Mahsulnokii moshinahoi nassoji to 80 m2/soat matoro tashkil medihad, ki 8-10 marotiba az istehsoli mato dar dast- gohi bofandagi ziyodtar ast.
Nassojiro az resmoni yakkhela, omekhtai nakhhoi tabii va suni tayyor mekunand. Resmonhoe, ki baroi istehsoloti nassoji makhsus gardonida shudaand, boyad az ruyi darozi, gafsi va mustahkami yakkhela boshand.
Nassojiro dar moshinahoi doirashakl va hamvor tayyor meku- nand, ki onho doroi yak yo du suzadonmeboshand. Binobar in, nas- sojii tayyorshavanda yakqabata va duqabata meshavand.
Suzandonho niz doirashakl va hamvor meshavand. Dar mo- shinahoi doroi suzandonhoi doirashakl nassojiro dar namudi ostin va dar moshinahoi suzandonhoi hamvordoshta dar namudi mato mebarorand.
Mekhanizmhoi halqazananda (girehgirandai)-i moshinahoi nassoji az suzanho, resmonbarorandaho, giro va plastinaho ibo- rat ast.
Jarayoni girehgirandagi dar namudi odi chunin meguzarad. Pesh az on ki az suzan gireh partofta meshavad, ba suzan resmoni digar doda meshavad. In ravand pay dar pay muttasil takror me- shavad.
Mahsulnokii balandi moshinahoi nassoji ba on vobastagi dorad, ki ba darozi mondani resmon to 5 mm rost meoyad, hamon vaqte, ki dar dastgohhoi bofanda in usul to 100-140sm meboshad, vale ba istehsoli matoi nassoji 20-30% ashyo bishyortar sarf me- shavad.
Solhoi okhir moshinahoi balanddaraja ikhtiro shudaand, ki matohoi tunuki sabuk istehsol mekunand.
Dar moshinahoi nassoji nafaqat mato, balki qismhoi alohidai libos niz barovarda meshavand, ki ba mahsuloti tayyor dukhta meshavand. Dar in vaqt ravandi buridani mato az bayn meravad.
Matoi nassoji nisbat ba digar matoho bo kashishkhuri va chandiriash farq dorad, ki in ba khalqahoi mutaharriki vobasta meboshad. Hangomi kashishkhurii mato shakli halqaho digar me- shavad, vale resmonho kam kashish mekhurand. Dar natijai kashish- khurdan matoi nassoji zud shakli khudro megirad.